This advanced design allows OPTIMA batteries to last considerably longer than conventional batteries. Independent Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) tests prove that an OPTIMA battery can still perform after 12,000 cycles (starts). In those same tests, the life span of conventional batteries averaged only 4,000 cycles. Even when new, an ordinary battery can never match the performance of a comparable OPTIMA battery. Why spend the time and money buying several conventional batteries when a single OPTIMA battery will serve you faithfully and trouble-free for years?

Optima Batteries D27M BlueTop Group 27 Marine Battery have enough deep cycle power for stereos, GPS systems, bilge pumps, fish finders, and other high-demand electronics, while still providing plenty of cranking power to start the motor. These batteries have longer life, more vibration resistance, is completely spill-proof and mountable in almost any position and faster recharging capabilities. Damage from vibration can cause battery failure. The cells in an Optima battery are tightly compressed into supportive chambers and secured with solid cast cell connections resulting in 15 times more vibration resistance than traditional batteries. Tightly sealed cells allow for mounting in multiple positions without leaking or damaging your vehicle and glass-mat separators absorb electrolyte to eliminate acid spilling.

For those marine applications that require the clean, reliable power of our starting and deep cycle batteries, rely on the OPTIMA Blue Top. Specifically designed for marine use, our Blue Top line has all the features of our starting and deep cycle batteries. OPTIMA batteries last longer even when not used continuously. This means that after infrequent use or off-season storage, the Blue Top will still start your boat. Of course, the Blue Top also offers OPTIMA’s famous vibration resistance and sturdy zero maintenance, quick recharge, leak-free design. If there ever were a perfect battery for marine applications, OPTIMA is it!

Product Features

• Pure lead spiralcell design allows for lead to be used in its purest form
• Spiralcell technology for superior vibration resistance and extended life
• Solid cast cell connections for increased durability and maximum plate height
• Tightly compressed cells for added vibration resistance
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

Product Features

• Fitment: 99 – 00 Honda Civic ( DX LX EX Si ) Coupe Hatchback Sedan
• Package includes: 1x Front Grille / NO INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED
• Made with lightweight high durable/quality ABS Plastic
• Designed to let more air enter the front end for better radiator performance
• Dramatically improves the style and appearance

In automotive engineering, a grille covers an opening in the body of a vehicle to allow air to enter. Most vehicles feature a grille at the front of the vehicle to protect the radiator and engine. Other common grille locations include below the front bumper, in front of the wheels (to cool the brakes), in the cowl for cabin ventilation, or on the rear deck lid (in rear engine vehicles).

Nowadays big grilles are primarily cosmetic. The grille is often a distinctive styling element, and many marques use it as their primary brand identifier. For example, Jeep has trademarked its seven-bar grille style.

Rolls-Royce is famous for arranging its grille bars by hand to ensure that they appear perfectly vertical. Other makers known for their grille styling include Bugatti’s horse-collar, BMW’s split kidney, Rover’s chrome “teeth”, Mitsubishi’s forward swept, fighter aircraft-style grilles for their cars 2008 Lancer and Lancer Evo X, Dodge’s cross bar, Alfa Romeo’s six-bar shield, Volvo’s slash bar, Audi’s relatively new, so-called single-frame grille, Pontiac’s split horizontal grille and an egg-crate grille on late-generation Plymouths. The unusual 1971 Plymouth Barracuda grille is known as a cheesegrater. Ford’s three-bar grille, introduced on the 2006 Fusion, has become distinctive as well.

The contrary styling pattern also occurs. Starting from the late 1930s, Cadillac would alternate its pattern from horizontal bars to various patterns of crosshatching as a simple way of making the car look new from year to year, for this make did not have a standard grille form. Sometimes there is a sort of fashion trend in grille bars. For example, in the early years after World War II, many American car makers generally switched to fewer and thicker grille bars.

A billet grille is an aftermarket part that is used to enhance the style or function of the original OEM grille. They are generally made from billet, solid bar stock aircraft-grade aluminum, although some are CNC machined from one solid sheet of aluminum.

Customizers would alter the grille as a matter of course in personalizing their car, taking the grille bar from another make, for example. Even sheet metal with patterned holes for ventilation grating sold to homeowners for repair has been found filling the grille opening of custom cars.

Product Features

• Universal Weapon R Aluminum Billet Oil Catch Tank available in Polish
• Available in Polish
• Color – Blue
• Color – Red
• Material – Billet Aluminum

An oil catch can is used in turbo applications, or high-performance race applications where excessive blow-by (leakage past the piston rings) of air and fuel vapor occurs. This creates a positive pressure in the crankcase. Engine manufactures have placed a valve on the engine block which releases this pressure. This valve is known as a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. During engine operation, blow-by gases, as well as oil mist from the rotating components of the engine, pass through the PCV valve and are routed back into the intake for the engine to burn off. However, some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a “gunk.” The oil catch can collects the oil mist and condenses the fuel vapors while allowing “cleaner” gases to be passed back into the intake. Typically the blow-by gasses are passed through a wire mesh, which give the vapor droplets something to adhere to. Since the oil catch cans condense the vapor portion of the gasses, they will need to be drained periodically of all the oil, fuel and other contaminants.

Product Features

• Titanium Silver color
• Type 2 oil cap
• Strikes a perfect balance between form and function

Review

By RustyWaveRyder: I am very satisfied with this product. It adds a sport look to my car…which isn’t exactly the sportiest car. The main point that I was surprised about was how much this simple shift knob changed the feel of my shifts. It really made the shifts feel better and more precise, but it may have just been getting used to the feel of a new shift knob. Great product overall and well worth the money.

Product Features

• Develop and utilized by professional auto-body experts.
• Unique patent-pending arched bridge design eliminates the chance for additional damage. (Other systems without our arched bridge design are known to actually add dents to a car!)
• Patent-pending adhesive system design guarantees dent removal without the messy, sticky residue other systems are known to leave behind.
• Easy to Use
• Instructions Included

Review

By Desired FX: I could describe perfectly for you how to use this product and it still might not work. There are so many X-factors in getting a good pull from it that you end up experimenting heavily with the thing, which I guess is what avoiding big body shop bills and spending around $20 gets you.

I had a fairly large ding in my car and started by using the large pad on the middle of the dent. I put a liberal amount of glue on it and waited the prescribed five minutes before affixing the bridge and the knob. It pulled the dent out, but it wouldn’t release. I’d either used too much glue or let it set for too long.

I took the bridge off and peeled the pad loose with my fingers, then tried again with the same amount of glue but a shorter set time. This time, the pad came loose and pulled the dent, but left a large amount of glue behind.

Since the glue peeled off fairly easily, I proceeded to the other side of the dent, this time with the medium pad, the same amount of glue, and the shorter set time. This time, it pulled the dent but wouldn’t come off. I removed the bridge and as I tried to pull the pad loose with my hand, the pad itself snapped in half and left plastic embedded in the glue. This time, the glue WASN’T easy to peel off.

I finally determined that I must be using too much glue, so I used the small pad on the next part of the dent, but put just a very thin but thorough layer of glue on it, letting it set for four minutes. This time, the pad came off the car easily, but the dent was pulled only partially out.

At that point, I gave up for the day and resigned myself to finishing the job another time. Right now, it looks a good deal better, dent-wise, but I’m having trouble getting all the glue off. I’ll try applying some ice to it tomorrow to see if it will chip off more easily.

So, what I learned from all of this is that you pretty much have to keep the amount of glue very, very thin (it shouldn’t ooze out from around the pad when you apply it) but you need to coat the entire bottom of the pad with glue (it SHOULD push up slightly through the four holes). It may take you several tries to get a dent out, but that method should work on a simple ding with one or two applications.

There’s a real trial-and-error aspect to this product that could make it work differently tomorrow than it did today, depending on factors like temperature and humidity. I can see a body shop getting a whole lot of use out of something like this once they’ve got experience with it, but for the average car-owner, the frustration factor may outweigh the product’s usefulness. First-time (or one-time) users will need a fair bit of luck to get exactly what they’re looking for.

Product Features

• Nine 18″ x 32″ sheets high tack permanent adhesive
• Aluminum-coated for heat-resistance
• Increased flexibility

Review

By Carl Kriesant: I’ve had the dynamat installed in my ’04 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport for about a month now and it was well worth the effort. When I say effort, I tore out my entire interior to install this stuff. Inner and outer door skins, entire floor (doubled up in places), trunk (doubled up again), rear hatch, and under my hood. It took a total of about 17 hours to install and trashed my hands, cuts and sore for several days. I used the dynamat heavy-duty roller for most of the installation and the handle of the roller to push the material into tight crevacises. My entire car, exluding the roof, took 2 3/4 bulk packs. I still have some left over and trying to figure out what to do with it…

The results: You could say I was skeptical like other users, mostly because I hadn’t known anyone who used it or what dynamat was even made of really. It’s basically sheets of tar (butyl rubber) backed with thick aluminum foil. This stuff is heavy, but pretty thin and tucks into tight places pretty easily. While at first I noticed an increase in my cars weight, it seems to be less noticable the more I drive. What’s more noticable is the quiet ride and solid-feeling the car now has. The doors really do close with a thud and not that reverberating tin-can sound like before. The entire chassis feels much more rigid and stiff, like a higher priced, luxury car. My roommate, who drives a Benz C-class, said the stiffness was immediately apparent and the road noises was significantly reduced. This girl loves to drive and she was pretty impressed with the results.

The amount of road noise from freeways was almost difficult to carry on conversations or listen to music clearly before. Much more quiet now. If you’ve ridden in a subaru impreza, you know how loud they are! While it’s not Lexus quiet, it’s much, MUCH better than a stock subaru. There’s still some noise, but I wasn’t able to cover the firewall as much as I would have liked and my tires are lousy. When new tires are needed, I’m going back to a quality set and that should help a lot more. (BTW, Bridgestone-made Fuzion HR’s suck a$$, but they are cheap.) I’m going with Bridgestone Turanza’s next time.

My intention was purely to block out road noise and make a more comfortable environment for myself and passangers. A bonus to killing the road noise was the improvement in my cars audio quality. I had previously installed an Alpine h.u., Alpine speakers and Audiobahn d-class amp w/ a 10″ sub and it really brought my system to life. I never knew what mid-bass was till after the dynamat was installed. I’m amazed to get that much thump, out of 6 1/2″ door speakers!! I had to go back into the headunit and re-adjust my equalizer because the entire soundstage totally changed. It really allows me to enjoy my music to it’s fullest without an amp for the door speakers, which is nice! My music consists, metal-core, metal and punk. The dynamat really brought out crisp, clean sound that wasn’t distorted at higher volumes like before. It’s also allowed me to tune in really precise and crisp bass hits from my single 10″, enough to make my rearview mirror droop with each hit. I love hearing and feeling the kick drums in heavy music.

All-in-all, I am extremely pleased with the results. At first I was tired and my hands and back ached from two straight days of installation, all the while thinking “what the hell am I doing!?”. But now, I can sit back on a drive, carry on conversations without raising our voices, listen to my music with better definition and clearity, or enjoy a nice peaceful interior alone. It’s been well worth the effort.

Would I do it all over again??

Product Features

• Airleather rim with generous grip
• 350 mm (13.8 in) diameter, measured outside to outside
• 30×35 mm rim diameter

Product Features

• Increases horsepower and is black in color
• Reduces intake restriction and allows more air to flow into the engine
• Easy to install (usually in 90 minutes or less)
• Lasts up to 100000 miles before service is required (depending on driving conditions)
• Million mile limited warranty

Review

By RustyWaveRyder: I had been thinking about purchasing this addition to my car for awhile before I finally decided to, and I am very glad I did. The intake sounds great on my 2011 Toyota Corolla S and looks great as well under the hood. Driving regularly and shifting between 2-3k rpms almost doesn’t sound like anything has changed but when you feel like unleashing a little speed, past 3.5k rpms, it begins to sound like a whole different car! Gas mileage, according to the car’s computer has increased much more than I thought it would (I’m getting about 20-30 more miles per tank in the city, and I haven’t even checked it on the highway yet). There are a couple parts in the instructions that are very difficult but once you have it properly installed and running, it’s completely worth the money and time! Hope this review helped!!

To get the look you need to go with a real HID system. You can change from a incandescent bulb to an arc discharge. The upgrade will use less power and output more light. But this upgrade means you need new bulbs and a special ballast.

Beware of the cheap Chinese imported kits. You will know when you are buying one because it will be incredibly cheap, and probably has plug-and-play bulbs that fit standard bulb types such as 9004, 9005, 9006, 9008, H1, H3, H4, H7, H9. These may seem like an easy fix, but they usually fail in a very short time, and replacement parts are hard to find.

Normal HID bulbs are labeled as D1S, D1R, D2S, D2R, D4S, D4. You will probably also see pseudo-Kelvin ratings for color temperature, 4000-6000 are all you need. 8000 and above are too blue, and even get into purple. They look cool, but you won’t be seeing as well. For the most light output keep it in the standard 4000 (white) to 6000 (slightly blue) range. The total light output will be maximized.

Next, you want to consider your headlamp housing type. The bulbs are intended for either projector or reflector type housings, however you will want to match the HID bulb type. The Xenon bulbs put out a very small source of light, so you must shield and/or focus this to produce the best output. The Xenon bulbs are of type projector D1S, D2S, D4S, or reflector: D1R, D2R, D4R. The S or R will depend on your intended housing: S is for projector, and R is for reflector. The R type bulb has a shield painted on to the bulb, so that stray light will be reduced when used in a reflector housing.

The number must match the ballast type you intend to use: D1, D2 or D4. The bulbs of type D1 have a ignitors built in the bulb socket, whereas D2 use an external ignitor, that is normally built into the ballast, but sometimes external. The D4 is a newer type that is similar to D2, but the bulb is mercury-free and requires a special ballast. You will find the D4 type on Toyota and Lexus, the ballast are usually made by Denso.

Product Features

• All the tail lights package will come as a pair left side and right side; designed as direct bolt-on replacement parts
• All wiring for the headlights was preassembled for essential plug and play application, halo rim wires need to connect and do some simple wiring connection
• These lights are made by an OE approved and ISO certified manufacturer with the quality meet or exceed all OE standards
• Some of the package includes light bulbs, for package which does not come with any light bulbs, you can apply the stock light bulbs for installation